The pagodas in Cambodia
In French, we often confuse pagoda and monastery. In Khmer, the word vat is used for the whole monastery. Some vats are real small villages with buildings for prayer, for study (religious or lay), for meals, for cooking, for living... Here are some very brief indications of these different elements of the vat.
The preah vihear. This is the sanctuary itself; it is used by the monks and for certain solemn festivals. It can be recognized by its size, often imposing, its roof, which can be very complicated, and its external columns (formerly in wood and now in cement). The preah vihear is generally raised and surrounded by a balustrade. At the time of the inauguration, nine seima were placed (one at each corner and in the middle of each panel, and one under the large Buddha. In some pagodas, the seima are marked by steles. Each vihear houses a large Buddha facing east. Now they are made of cement. When it is in stone, it must be carved before building the preah vihear. The roof is supported by two rows of pillars, formerly made of wood. Traditionally, the windows and doors were made of carved wood. In the richer pagodas (such as Wat Kev or Wat Samrong Knong), the columns, ceilings, framework, doors and shutters were lacquered and gilded. The interior walls may be covered with uplifting frescoes on the life of Buddha or even on ordinary life. Increasingly, the outer pillars are decorated with Garuda or other motifs. Like churches, pagodas are victims of thieves who do not hesitate to take away statues, doors and lacquered shutters which explains why preah vihear are now often closed, even during the day.
The sala chhan. This building is used for the majority of the ordinary festivals and for the meals of the monks and the faithful during these festivals. There is always a large statue of Buddha. Sometimes the sala chhan looks like a small preah vihear, but it is often more airy.
The kod. These are the living quarters of the monks. Their styles can be extraordinarily varied.
The classrooms. There are often classrooms: in the past, most of the education was provided by monasteries. Nowadays, in some pagodas, language courses are given for example. These classes can even be mixed.
The entrance gate. The monastery is always closed. One enters through one or more gates (klaong thvear) which are generally very decorated. The name of the pagoda is inscribed on the main gate. When the monastery is far from a road, it is not uncommon for a gate to be built at the entrance of the road or the track that leads to the vat, sometimes several kilometers away.
The banyan tree. In the past, each monastery had a banyan tree (the Buddha tree).
The pond. Except in the city, the pagodas have a pond or srah.
The banner poles. They signal the pagoda from afar.
The tombs. Monasteries also serve as cemeteries. Generally, Buddhist Cambodians are cremated and have their ashes placed in a cheddey or stupa which can be large. The Chinese are more often buried in tombs in the countryside. A curious innovation can be noted. As the pagodas do not have enough money to house the monks, and, on the other hand, wealthy people like to have a beautiful cheddey for their deceased, cheddey-kod are multiplying: the faithful build large cheddey in which one or more living rooms for monks are provided. The monks are housed and often fed. In return, they maintain the tomb and participate in the celebrations for the deceased.
The big drum. It is used to mark certain times of prayer.
The Pasha. The majority of Cambodians are cremated in the pagoda, but in some cases, cremation is carried out in a crematorium built for the occasion, which is the symbol of Mount Meru.
Archaeological remains. Several pagodas (Wat Ek Phnom and Wat Basèt in Battambang, for example) are located near a prasat (ancient temple): there are therefore quite a few archaeological remains. But in many other pagodas, a few pieces or lintels brought from neighboring sites were reused. Sometimes a piece has been modified, like the linga of Wat Kdol (still in Battambang) on which four Buddhas have been sculpted and to which particular medicinal virtues are attributed.
Racing dugout canoes. For the Water Festival, many villages have large racing dugouts. These dugouts are often sheltered in pagodas.
