Kompong Thom
Situated at the heart of Cambodia along the banks of the
Stung Sen, this busy artery town enjoys trade from the traffic en route to Siem
Reap or Phnom Penh. Its original name was Kompong Pos Thom, derived from posthom meaning two snakes who, according
to legend, lived in a cave here and were worshiped by the local Buddhist
population. The cave’s location has since been forgotten; however, relics of the
recent past, namely the pre-Angkorian temple monuments of Sambor Prei Kuk, are
increasingly drawing more visitors to this town, as is the quirky moun tain temple of Phnom Santuk. The countryside surrounding Kompong Thom is
pictur esque, with buffalo lazing in
roadside pools, and villagers riding their livestock-drawn carts across their
farmlands. Visitors should keep an eye out for the home-made effigies outside houses,
which are believed to ward off evil spirits.
Sambor Prei Kuk Located east of the Tonlé Sap Lake in
Kompong Thom province, this 7th-century complex of temples was constructed
during the reign of King Isanavarman I in the Chenla period.
Spread over a large area of semi-cleared jungle, the
ruins are all that remain of the ancient capital of Isanapura.
There are three main complexes here – Preah Sambor (North
Group), Preah Tor (Central Group), and Preah Yeay Poun (South Group). The sun-dappled, rectangular-shaped Lion
Temple, guarded by a lion at its entrance, is one of the highlights of these
ruins. Unique to Sambor Prei Kuk are its many octagon-shaped prasats (towers).
Despite being choked by the roots of strangler fig trees, some
of these towers are in excellent conditions with lintels,
columns, and pilasters displaying intricate carvings.
Large bas-reliefs rendered in brick also represent some
of the earliest attempts in this style – amazingly, Sambor Prei Kuk was
pioneering new forms of artistry 150 years before the mighty Angkor. Visitors
can hire trained guides, who can be found near the café, to show them around
the ruins for a fee, while school children will try and tag along to
practice their English. A cursory walk
through the ruins will take about an hour. Given the low volume
of foot traffic, and the welcome shade provided by the forest, these are
rewarding and atmospheric ruins to visit, and can easily be covered in a day
trip from Siem Reap.
Phnom Santuk
Rising to a height of 679 ft (207 m) above lush paddy fields,
Phnom Santuk is the most sacred mountain in Kompong Thom province. It is
approached via a stone pathway of 809 steps, flanked
by gaudily rendered statues, and a number of fairly insistent
beggars. Alternatively, visitors can drive up a steep road that snakes through
thick jungle and past a resident colony of macaques. The complex at the summit
has a gilded, white-walled central temple.
A number of Buddha statues have been carved into the rock
face, including a few Reclining Buddhas, all of which, are over 33 ft (10 m) in
length. Various interconnecting cement bridges between small
shrines, statues of horses and deities, and a sculpture
workshop add to the appeal of the place. There is also an active monastery
whose friendly monks like to chat with visitors.
The views from the summit are stupendous and are a welcome
change from the infinite flatness of the lush rice plains. It is recommended that
visitors take regular breaks and carry plenty of water should they decide to walk
up the road.
Santuk Silk Farm
Road Map D6. Hwy 6. 11 miles
(18 km) SE of Kompong Thom.
Tel (012)-906-604.
7–11am &
1–5pm Mon–Sat.
Just outside the village of Kakaoh, and opposite the start
of the road that leads to Phnom Santuk, is the Santuk Silk Farm run by
ex-Vietnam War veteran Bud Gibbons, and his wife. Visitors can view the various
life stages of the silkworm – from egg to caterpillar to cocoon.
Cocoons provide the base for the thread, which is then
spun and woven into attractive kramas (scarves) by 15 local girls housed in a
cooperative on-site. The kramas can be bought from a shop on the farm. Several
mulberry trees dot the farm, the leaves of which are fed to the silkworms.
Lunch can be provided, but the organizers need to be informed
in advance.
